This is not intended as an exhaustive list but an explanation of terms used in this website. Of necessity, it simplifies much that is complex, but we hope explains some of the more common terms.

by weight 14 parts gold to 10 parts other metals,
or 58.33% pure gold see 585

by weight 18 parts gold to 6 parts other metals,
or 75.0% pure gold, marked 750 or 18K

by weight 22 parts gold to 2 parts other metals,
or 91.66% pure gold, marked 22K

so called London gold, the British 14K standard is slightly higher than the accepted US purity of 583 parts per 1000. All dvb 14K is at the 58.5% standard and is marked 585.

18K gold is marked 750, being 750 parts gold per 1000

dvb marks its sterling silver 925, meaning 925 parts silver per 1000

a fusion of compatible metals (or minerals) while molten, to enhance the hardness or other properties of the resulting combination of metals

precious form of quartz, purple or violet in color, the yellow variety is known as citrine

charm or object carried about the person as a protection from evil or to bring good luck see eye bell

a darkening of the recessed areas of gold or silver jewelry to enhance the visibility of the engraving. dvb new york uses an irreversible process with gold to achieve the effect. The silver antique can be removed in the correct solvent. With gold jewelry dark gray is the darkest achievable color. Platinum cannot be antiqued using these methods.

originally a French movement in the 1920s reacting against the ornate art nouveau style which preceded WWI. Popular in the US the style laid emphasis on bold geometric patterns and abstract forms.

art movement widespread throughout Europe from around 1880-1910 particularly in the decorative and applied arts characterized by sinous, organic forms and elaborately curving lines see pins

the process of establishing the standards of purity of gold, silver and other alloys reach the required legal standard without actually analysing the total composition of the alloy. After successful assay the article is hallmarked outside the US. dvb regularly assays its finished pieces to ensure standards are maintained though it is not a legal requirement in the US

called anulus pronubus in ancient Rome, betrothal rings were presented by a man to his fiancee showing their intention to marry. From earliest times usually a plain ring without a stone, most popularly a lover's knot ring or fede ring.

accurately the top, forward facing rim or edge of a ring which holds the stone, now commonly used to describe an entire ring setting. On a signet ring, the bezel is the flat face used to form an impression in wax.

in London, the British national collection of archaeology and art founded in 1753 with a credible claim to house the most comprehensive museum collection of the works of mankind in the world.

a chain made of oval intersecting links which lie at 90 degrees to each other as opposed to curb chain where the links are twisted to enable the chain to lie flat.

gemstone carved to reveal a raised design often with layers of different colors of stone, reverse of intaglio

measure of weight for precious stones equal to 200 milligrams

see lost wax process

common era, or in the Christian calendar, AD, anno domini in the year of our Lord

dvb ring design with a separate charm attached to the ring band see Star of David ring

gold alloyed with metals to give, red, white and greenish colors.

see lost wax

the yellow semi-precious form of quartz from golden-yellow to reddish-yellow. Named after the French for lemon, citron. The purple form is known as amethyst

Irish ring of uncertain derivation, probably 17th century, the essential characteristics of which are two hands embracing a heart, topped by a crown. The hands symbolise faith, the heart, love, and the crown, loyalty and fidelity. Probably derived from the Italian fede ring.

semi rigid necklace made from hardened wire or steel wrapped with sterling silver or gold

bracelet in semi rigid form open on one side allowing the wrist to pass through instead of over the hand

a method of producing a facsimile by depositing metal in a mold using an electrical current. Some dvb museum reproductions were first copied from the original using electrotypes

naturally occurring gold and silver alloy

essentially vitrified pigments deposited in layers at temperature to leave colored glass in fields on rings or jewelry. Slow laborious process producing a lustrous intense color, but easily cracked or damaged. Difficult to control the colors, especially reds. Should not be used on wedding rings or rings exposed to daily wear. dvb uses vitreous (glass) enamel on gold rings, and resin enamel on silver or costume jewelry. Resin enamel is softer and less lustrous.

from the Italian for faith or trust, fede rings are symbolic rings shaped in the form of two clasped hands. The rings were popular in ancient Rome and again throughout Europe as betrothal rings from the 12th to the 18th centuries. see symbolic rings

The collection of the University of Cambridge founded in 1848 and formed mainly by private benefactions to the University, but universal in scope, comprising antiquities, fine and decorative arts from east and west.

an irregular pearl of various colors produced by fresh water molluscs such as mussels and clams, popular in Roman jewelry for its irregular shape and relative availability.

various related languages of the celtic peoples of Scotland, Ireland and the Isle of Man.

hardness 6.5-7.5 a family of red gemstones common in medieval jewelry ranging from the deep red almandine to the blood red pyrope.

the most malleable of all metals, yellow in its natural state though alloyed into various colors, relatively inert and certainly the most popular metal in jewelry for over 6,000 years. see 14K etc

revival of medievalism which began in the 18th century as part of the romantic movement, but became a more scholarly reinvention of gothic forms in architecture particularly, but also in the other arts including jewelry, notably Augustus Pugin and William Burges

gold alloyed with copper to produce an enriched color and greenish tinge, particularly used with enamel rings to strengthen the colour of of the gold when set beside bright enamels. dvb 14K enamel rings are produced with green gold, 18K rings do not require it.

marks stamped on jewelry throughout much of the world to attest to the purity of the metal after assay. European hallmarks are legally required, and date back to the early middle ages, an early form of consumer protection against fraud. Marks are not officially required in the US but are carried by custom and practice. dvb marks its pieces with a dvb mark and a standard of purity see gold, sterling, platinum etc.

carved gem where the design is created by incising into the stone making a negative pattern, when pressed into wax or clay the design would be raised. see cameo

or Japanese Taste was a popular influence in late 19th century Europe in both the fine and decorative arts after the opening of Japan to trade in the 1860s

variation of the word carat now used to describe the purity of gold, being 1/24th part by weigh of pure gold i.e. 24 karats being pure gold e.g. 14 karat is 14 parts pure gold to 10 parts of other metals

casting process where a carved or cast wax original is encased in clay or other investment, the wax is melted under temperature and the resulting voids are filled with molten metal. Used since early Egyptian times for casting fine metals where the highest level of detail was required.

comparative scale of hardness from 1, the softest, to 10, the hardest (diamond). Most gemstones fall in the range 7-10

in Dublin, Ireland's national collection of antiquities formed in 1890, presenting a collection universal in scope from 2000 BC to the present as well as Europe's pre-eminent collection of Celtic and prehistoric artifacts

artistic movement of the latter half of the 18th century excited by the scholarly rediscovery of antiquity in Italy and Greece causing a fervour for all forms of classical decoration, differing from other classical revivals by its strict adherence to scholarship and authenticity

see dwt

almost annular or circular closure for a cloak, with a small gap to allow the insertion of fabric held in place by a pin which bisects the circle. Later developed into the ring brooch where the circle was completely closed. see medieval

rare, silvery white metallic element of great strength, weight and resistance to corrosion. Difficult to alloy, cast and work owing to its very high melting point. The standard of platinum in the US and most western countries is 95% pure and is marked PLAT by dvb. From platina, little silver, the word the Spanish gave it when first seen in South America in the 18th century.

short love poem or inscription on rings or other jewelry particularly of the medieval period.

failures in the casting process leaving granular areas in the metal which are difficult or impossible to repair, necessitating recasting.

alternate spelling of poesy

meaning rebirth, the period in western Europe from the mid fifteenth century onward, characterized by a radical development in the arts, politics and sciences

or red gold is alloyed with copper to give its hue

ancient and sacred language of Hinduism see India

dung beetle believed to be sacred by the Egyptians, often used as an amulet either cast in gold or from semi precious stones, the flat underside was used as a signet see example

ancient jewish coin and unit of measurement, modern currency of Israel

a hard gemstone appearing in a variety of colors from the valuable red, such as the so-called Black Prince’s ruby, through to blue and green. Popular in medieval jewelry.

early silver coin of Classical and Hellenistic Greece

a private seal once impressed into wax to authenticate a document was often formed into a finger ring with the seal forming the bezel of the ring. Known since Egyptian times where the seal would be on the reverse of a scarab. The seal would usually be in reverse, so the impression in the wax would be right reading. see signet rings

metallic element cast or formed for jewelry as an alloy with copper and other traces to add hardness, see sterling. Reacts with sulfur (sulphur) in the air to cause tarnishing.

One of the few aspects of the jewelry industry that is standardized is ring size, though many national systems are in use. The US uses a numeric system from 1-13. The UK has an alphabetic system from A-Z. The European system is numeric from 38-70, representing the interior circumference in millimeters. dvb sizes are listed in the US system but can be sized to UK or European standards as required. The most common sizes for women are 6 and 7, and for men 10 and 11. see ring size chart

the commonest British standard of silver purity, dating back to the currency in use in England in the 14th century, comprising 92.5% pure silver and the balance of copper and other traces. Now widely accepted as an international standard.

A thin deposit of a dirt which discolors the surface of metal and is easily removed. Also a reaction between metals and other chemicals which discolors the surface, particularly silver which reacts with sulfur (sulphur). The silver sulfide (sulphide) can be removed with a proprietary cleaning product and gentle abrasion.

perhaps the most complex family of gemstones due to its wide variation in color and transluscence and unusual chemical complexity. Appearing in many colors from blue through red to green and yellow. Can be transparent or translucent.

system of weights used for precious metal with pound of 12 ounces or 5760 grains, not to be confused with the avoirdupois system in common household use, from Troyes in France.

in London and regional centres, the British national collection of applied art and design, pre-eminent in the study of materials and the decorative arts

gold alloyed with silver (electrum) and in modern times palladium to produce a rich white color